First, let us now praise the Lyric Stage Company of Boston for failing to install Tweet Seats in its Back Bay theater.

Absent all that Tweet Dreck, the play’s the thing . . .

And “Superior Donuts,” currently at the Lyric Stage through February 4, is – well – superior.

As the Lyric Stage website describes the Tracy Letts play:

In a shabby Chicago neighborhood, a downtrodden donut shop owner hires a street-savy [sic] aspiring young writer with hustle and bright ideas. Full of laughs and compelling characters, the Pulitzer Prize winning author of August: Osage County mixes the challenge of embracing the past with the redemptive power of friendship in this satisfying comedy-drama.

Actually, it’s a lot better than that.

The cast – from Will LeBow’s sad-sack shop owner to Omar Robinson’s edgy employee to Karen MacDonald’s lovestruck local cop to Steven Barkhimer’s Russki entrepreneur- is uniformly compelling, and the staging is sharp and dynamic.

Like a good donut, this terrific production sticks with you.

Don’t miss it.